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The ToneQuest
Report
February 2000
A Buyer’s Guide for Purchasing Old Amps –
Dave Boze
An increasing
number of amplifiers are being purchased today over the Internet
without the new owners seeing or hearing them before they agree to
buy. Most of these transactions involve old amps (Fenders, Ampegs,
Marshalls, Voxes, etc.) and aside from the varying descriptions
offered by the sellers, who really knows what may be going on inside
these cream puffs? What potential surprises should a prospective
buyer look for? What are the questions you need to ask before you
buy? Well, fellow Tonefreaks, let’s get to the heart of these
important questions with expert tech Dave Boze.
Over the past 10
years we’ve seen amps go from relative obscurity as prized
appliances, tone machines, and collectibles, to highly sought-after
and very expensive vintage “instruments.” Prices have in some cases
increased several times over what they were 10 years ago!
Back in the mid
to late 80’s when the vintage guitar boom was just starting to come
into it’s own, most people didn’t give much thought about amps. A
lot of people paying big dollars for vintage guitars were bedroom
players and collectors, and they didn’t care as much about creating
a special sound, since most of these vintage guitars were going to
be played at home. Those of us who were still gigging on a regular
basis had never really left the tube amp world, or we had
re-discovered tube amps after acquiring a really bad taste for solid
state. Slowly but surely, more people started to grasp the fact that
the entire chain in the search for tone is rooted in the combination
of an electric guitar and an amplifier. As for me, I still think
that a great amp with a so-so guitar is more desirable than a
terrific guitar with a mediocre amp!
As many of the
most desirable vintage guitars have become increasingly rare and
expensive, it was inevitable that amplifiers would attract the
attention of collectors, but has only been within the past 2 years
that the collecting frenzy has truly caught up with vintage amps.
Now that the word
is out, the potential for some unpleasant problems exists. You’ll
notice that most vintage instrument dealers won’t sell an amp with a
warranty, for example. Why? Well, aside from the fact that
amplifiers can be unexpectedly temperamental even after having been
serviced, shipping can wreak havoc on an amp, even in the absence of
any visible signs of damage. And unfortunately, a lot of people
don’t pack amplifiers properly. So the mint, just serviced, killer
amp that you bought on Ebay could arrive looking mint and sounding
like a cat on fire! For packing tips, refer to the section in Mark
Baier’s interview on page 6, and then confirm and clarify your
expectations with anyone who may be shipping an amp to you in the
future.
Looking Under the Hood
If you want to a
buy one of the more valuable and collectible models, it is crucial
to know what you’re getting “under the hood.” For example, blackface
control panels can be bought today for $80 along with some new grill
cloth and poof— someone’s silver face amp worth $500 is now
cosmetically transformed to a blackface model worth $1,200. Does
this go on? It must. Transformers can be changed (and they often
are) speakers reconed, cabinets recovered and even new cabinets aged
and recovered to look 30 years old. Would someone really do that?
Think of the money involved when you’re dealing with a $2,800
Vibroverb or a $4,000 ’59 Bassman. Now, I’m not crying wolf and
telling you that everyone who has an amp for sale is out to screw
you, but sometimes I wonder if many of the sellers of all of these
suddenly hot amps know if the amp they are selling is “original.”
The point is…I’d want to know before I spent $1,000 or more on an
amplifier, or anything else. So know what you’re buying, or pass!
When it comes to
evaluating an amp before you buy, there are several critical things
you want to verify to the best of your ability. Amps are different
from guitars in that changed parts in guitars will usually reduce
the selling price, but changed, missing, or altered parts in amps
can be hard to detect and they can dramatically alter the tone of
the amp (as well as the selling price, if you know.) Some things are
more important than others, and in some cases an altered amp may
even be more desirable than an original! More on that in a moment…
The Cabinet
Does it have the
original covering? Is the tolex or tweed in good condition? Tweed is
tough to recondition, but black tolex can usually be brought back to
life with a little know-how. Even if the covering is shot and
unsalvageable, you may wish to consider buying the amp at a bargain
price and having it professionally restored. I run across a lot of
amps with missing back panels. Not to worry, you can get some made
if needed, and they will look perfect.
Transformers
One of the key
components in the classic sound of old tube amps is the way that the
original transformers were made. Most were manufactured using paper
bobbins and the coils were carefully interleaved together to allow
the maximum transfer of sound. You’ll find that in almost all new
boutique amps, transformer construction is quite similar to those
found in vintage amplifiers of yesteryear. To me, original
transformers have been a very important consideration, especially in
1950’s amps, since exact repro copies were more difficult to find.
Having said that, a much better selection of new reproduction
transformers is now available and they are very close to OEM
transformers. In regard to power transformers, it is critical that
the voltages match the specs of the original, and in output
transformers, you certainly want to have the correct impedance to
match your speakers and similar construction to the original to
produce authentic vintage sound. Virtually all transformers are
dated, so you can verify their originality.
Speakers
Original speakers
can be a significant benefit to tone, or not, and almost always a
determining factor in price. Most people who really know amps will
tell you that the sound of an original Celestion in a Marshall, a
Bulldog in a Vox, or a Jensen in a Fender is the sound that defines
those amps.
Reconed speakers
are highly variable. Be cautious in this area, because I have heard
some reconed speakers that sound fantastic, and others that sound
horrible, depending on the type of voice coil and paper that were
used. There are also instances when original speakers may not be
desirable. In an effort to reduce costs, Fender stopped exclusively
using Jensen speakers in the mid 1960’s. To me, this was a huge
mistake and it serves as an example of what happens when bean
counters and corporate profits get in the way of good old solid
American engineering. I personally believe that Oxford speakers, and
to a lesser extent CTS speakers, offered inferior tone compared to
Jensens. I have worked on hundreds of amps that had these speakers
in them and in my opinion they sound fairly lame compared to the
tone of an original (or the recent vintage reissue) Jensens. In
these cases, if the original Oxford speakers were gone, I wouldn’t
lose too much sleep over it. A new speaker can dramatically enhance
the sound of many amps, sometimes even those with their original
speakers.
Internal Circuitry
This is an area
rife with controversy, but here’s my 2 cents worth:
Electronic parts
wear out, primarily as a result of age, use, and heat. Also remember
that in the 1950’s, electronic parts were not manufactured to nearly
the same tolerances that they are today; plus or minus 20% was the
norm for some parts. Electrolytic capacitors definitely have a shelf
life, and when they leak, they can wreak havoc in an amp in terms of
tone and noise, and they can even cause transformers to fail. With
time, coupling caps can leak DC into tone circuits – not good. Power
resistors can drift, especially those that are near a heat source,
and when they do, they can disrupt voltages throughout the amp,
negatively affecting tone. Some manufacturers used cheap parts to
cut costs (the brown chocolate drop coupling and tone capacitors are
an example). So, if some parts are changed, that can be a good
thing.
Tubes
Original tubes
are in almost all cases absolutely worthless unless the amp was
hardly ever played. Occasionally, I’ll see lots of life left in
original tubes, but for the most part, an amp that has been played
will need new tubes. Tubes are mechanical components that wear out.
Grille Cloth
The new repro
cloth is very good and you can even acquire aged cloth now. Contrary
to what anybody tells you, Fender never used black grille cloth on
any Tweed, Brown, White, or Black tolex amp (from the 1950’s through
1970’s).
Don’t get too
hung up on “changed” amps that you intend to play – especially if
you have access to a good amp tech. Just be aware that originality
should normally affect the final purchase price. Most players have
silverface Fender amps converted to blackface circuits because doing
so tremendously improves the tone. So here’s a case where an altered
amp actually has more value than if it was in original condition.
Above all, keep
in mind that amps are for TONE! I’ve heard many absolute beaters
produce the most fabulous tone that you could imagine. As a player
rather than a collector, I get much less hung up on cosmetic
condition and internal changes as long as the amp is running great
and produces killer tone. But it is important to know what you’re
buying, particularly when you’re dealing with an amp you haven’t
seen or heard, and won’t, until it’s yours.
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